For some, walking is a pedestrian activity. But not me, brother. I love it.
And though I can pinpoint the genesis of my current wanderlust to July 5, 2010, the truth is that I’ve always enjoyed a nice long stroll. I associate them with adventure. Around 3rd grade in suburban California, my buddy Chris and I left the safety of our housing development, crossed a big street, and went to a strip mall for comic books and Charleston Chews. (This is the first time I’m admitting to these hijinks, so I hope I’m not retroactively grounded.) In middle school in suburban New Jersey, my pal John and I took a long walk from our street to the town’s center for a pizza. Freshman year of college, in Pittsburgh, my friend Todd and I liked going to the nearby Squirrel Hill neighborhood where there were movie theaters and pizza. (I like pizza, OK?) There was a shortcut behind our Hamerschlag dorm that involved climbing over some sort of low wall and scrambling through a wooded area and perhaps a yard or two.
And these days, I am really enjoying walking to Jersey City from my home in Hoboken. My friend and former neighbor Carli is really the Vasco de Gama of these excursions. She would routinely walk to Target, which is quite a hike. I admired her pluck, but it never really occurred to me to make the journey myself.
Then, in the fall of 2009, the Hudson River Walkway between Hoboken and Jersey City was officially opened. As the 4th of July weekend rolled around in 2010, my friend Martha posted something on Facebook about the walkway, which reminded me to give it a try. It was hot as hell that Monday but I set out anyway, and I kind of loved it. Ended up at the big Colgate Clock, which I’d only seen from lower Manhattan or a ferry boat.
So this year, when I emceed a couple of events on the Jersey City waterfront, I decided to walk home from them. The walkway is a little desolate after hours, but if I’m going to meet an untimely end, I want to be wearing a frilly tuxedo shirt when it happens.
This month, I’ve taken things to a whole new level. It began Saturday, July 1, when I was at a favorite bar in Jersey City. Patrick, a pal from my building, had gone home before I did. At 1:47 a.m., I texted him that I was going to check Google Maps before heading to the nearby Grove Street PATH station. This is a miraculous age: We can find out when the next train is due before we leave the bar and avoid spending an inordinate amount of time sweating on the platform.
So, sweet, if I left the bar right then, I could be home in 32 minutes. Not bad at all, especially late at night. But what was this? Google Maps also presented me the option of walking. And then I’d be home in 34 minutes. But to walk from this part of Jersey City? It seemed crazy; I was nowhere near my beloved riverfront walkway. But a suggested route, 1.8 miles, was all mapped out for me.
I was drunk enough to give it a go.
The late-night stroll through quiet, unfamiliar residential blocks was strangely calming. And then there was just the small matter of crossing the roadways to and from the Holland Tunnel. But that was actually a piece of cake—they’ve got those little “press button to cross” buttons just like at normal intersections. The whole thing was kind of cool. Past the giant Port Authority Police headquarters, past the old Lackawanna Center where the Cake Boss now does his mail-order business. The only segment of the trip where my safety felt slightly compromised was going under the “Welcome to Hoboken” overpass. There’s just something about creepy, poorly-lit undersides of railroad bridges in the middle of the night that get me a little on-edge.
At 2:38 a.m. I texted Patrick again; I was three blocks from home. The experiment was a success.
On the 4th of July, I was scheduled to conduct an interview in Jersey City. (There are no “holidays” for us freelance writers.) I looked up the café where we had agreed to meet. Hmmm, it was about halfway between the Newport and Grove Street PATH stations—there wasn’t a clear choice. Driving would make sense, except I didn’t want to give up my parking space on July 4; Hoboken has been a popular fireworks destination ever since Macy’s moved its display to the Hudson River. Let’s see, what would Google think about me… walking?
Apparently it would only take 28 minutes. Sure, it was 8 million degrees outside, but I still had fond memories of my sweltering July-4th-weekend walk a couple of years ago. I packed a mini version of my Grand Canyon hike preparedness kit: baseball cap, water bottle, hand towel.
It was a good walk. I enjoyed passing in front of the nearly empty Holland Tunnel. I wasn’t too much of a sweaty mess when I arrived for the interview. And on my return trip, even the creepy underpass was kind of cool-looking.
During the interview, I’d been reminded of a Jersey City record store I’d always meant to check out, but had never gotten around to. Last Saturday afternoon, it crossed my mind again. I had several hours between obligations. There was a free concert in Manhattan that was appealing to me, but, eh, I’d been to a concert on Wednesday and would be at another one on Sunday. And the lure of another walk to Jersey City was just too strong.
This would be the longest attempt yet, 38 minutes, but hey, time wasn’t really an issue. And that’s the real beauty of walking: You’re not in a hurry. People look stupid when they walk fast. You can notice things while walking that you’d never notice driving by, or even running or biking. When you’re walking, you are always one non-step away from stopping and looking around.
Here are some of the things I saw on my Saturday walk.
And yes, I had a couple of slices as well.
Years ago, my friend Jeff introduced me to the concept of being goal oriented or process oriented. Walking leans towards process. Wandering around in an unfamiliar place is just about my favorite thing to do. I don’t care if it’s historic or fancy or particularly “scenic”—I actually prefer if it’s not. And I’ll just walk down a street till it’s not interesting to me anymore, and then find some other street.
I still love walking around Hoboken, but it’s only a square mile, and I’ve seen just about all there is to see. Jersey City gives me new sidewalks to saunter, new roads to roam. And if they keep extending that waterfront walkway, who knows? I may take my talents to South Beach.
Walk the other way next time. Weehawken is really nice to walk around. Not only are there lots of really nice old houses, there’s a Pathmark where you can take your blood pressure–and they give you a card that keeps track of your blood pressure from visit to visit!!!!!
On July 5th, my friend Susan and I walked from 70th and Lexington to 42nd and Fifth. It was a nice walk and we started out full of enthusiasm, but by the end we practically had heat stroke and couldn’t wait to get inside to the A/C. I love to walk, especially around the City, but it was too hot for such a long walk. It makes me long for those cool Autumn days! Keep up your walking, though. Weehawken sounds nice, especially with those free blood pressure checks!
They have completed the northern connection to Weehawken, but isn’t all that stuff up the hill?
Yes. All that water that floods Hoboken on days like yesterday comes from us.
There are giant staircases to get you from the waterfront to up the hill.
Great story, and I love the photos! Especially the shadowy one under that bridge near Observer Hwy. I’d love to see more random photos from your walks.
One of my fave Hudson County memories so far is from when I walked a long stretch of Newark Avenue in Jersey City one day, due to my ignorance. I’d read that one of the library branches was closing a room full of archives and selling old stuff cheap, and I saw that the address was somewhere on Newark Avenue…so I figured it would be a quick walk. I didn’t know how long Newark Ave really is. It’s loooong. Along the way I passed some great old buildings, a famous burger joint, and a couple of intriguing examples of urban decay at its finest. Plus, it was one of those cool early October days when the weather reminds you that a big change is coming. I still think of that walk fondly.
When I lived in Toronto, I was doing my research in the city archives. I couldn’t always justify the subway fare so I almost always walked it. It was only 1.67 miles but sometimes it felt like serious pavement pounding, especially in the unforgiving heat of a Toronto summer. Urban walking has its challenges – lack of shade, hard surfaces, roads to cross – but it is really rewarding.
I enjoyed and appreciate both these comments, and yet am stuck on the words “famous burger joint.”
I’ll have to try to figure out which burger joint it was. I just looked up White Mana, but that’s on Tonnele, so that couldn’t have been it. It was a small but intriguing little red building and at the time I had heard local legends about the place so I recognized it. It was like 15 years ago, so it may not even be there anymore. Oh well, you’ll have to head over to Newark Avenue and go west, young man. (Hint, if you actually end up IN Newark, you’ve gone too far.)
I have the same problem with Hoboken – it’s just such a great place to walk but I’ve seen almost everything in it, so it’s harder to find something new. Jersey City and Weehawken both have cool neighborhoods worth exploring. That’s why I make reporters write stories like this: http://hudsonreporter.com/view/full_story/7269161/article-Fit-for-a-%E2%80%98king%E2%80%99-Historic-homes-sell-for-millions-in-Weehawken-enclave–
As one fellow walker to another, I really enjoyed this article.
The photo of the Colgate clock reminded me of my grandmother who grew up in Jersey City and had a colorful array of sayings, including: Her ass is bigger than the Colgate clock.
It wasn’t until I had grown up and actually saw the Colgate clock that I really understood what she meant.
Ha! thanks Laurie!